You can’t leave Seoul without spending a few hours at a jjimjilbang, or Korean sauna. The most accessible and English-friendly is the Dragon Hill Spa, a mega-complex that includes not only various kinds of dry saunas (with names like “yellow mud” and “rock salt,” each with their own healing properties) but also snack bars, a nail counter, a video game arcade, an outdoor swimming pool (bring your suit if you want to jump in), and a computer gaming center. The vibe is more amusement park than zen, but it’s still worth the trip. Once you’ve sweated out your impurities in the co-ed clothed area, head to the women’s or the men’s bathing area where it’s suits off—don’t be shy about hopping into the communal tubs. Do as the locals do, and alternate between hot and cold pools (great for your circulation). Want an even more authentic experience: book ddeh-miri, an intense scrub that removes layers of dead skin, leaving you smooth as a baby (warning: they leave almost no inch of skin un-scrubbed). While it’s possible to get food at the jjimjilbang, make your dinner stop a few blocks from the hotel: Jinju Jip, a no-frills basement restaurant serves up heaping bowls of their renowned specialty—kong-guksu, cold soybean noodles. Jinju Jip’s soybean broth is thick and creamy, made of beans boiled and ground on-site, and their noodles are perfectly chewy. Be forewarned, they close at 8pm on weekdays and 7pm on weekends, and there’s always a wait for a table at lunch.